Dan and I have been living in Brussels for over 6 months now, so I think it’s time for a list of random things we’ve learned about living here.
1. The official languages of Belgium are French, Dutch and German (which is only spoken in a small corner of Belgium). But the country is culturally and linguistically divided between the Flemish (Dutch speakers) and Walloons (French speakers). There are many reasons for the divide, but one interesting reason is that many more Dutch speakers speak French than French speakers speak Dutch–ça va? So, many of the Dutch speakers are a bit resentful that they are able to accomodate French speakers, while the majority of French speakers feel like, ‘why should I have to learn Dutch’? It can be messy. So, Brussels is a little French-speaking island in the middle of Dutch-speaking country, but if you try and speak Dutch with people in Brussels they usually respond (in French) that not only do they not speak Dutch, they are fairly insulted that you would think that they would. The French v. Dutch conflict here is confusing, interesting and annoying all at the same time.
2. Belgium does not want me to have more shoes. I love shoes; it’s a silly female stereotype that happens to be accurate in my case. However, it turns out that I have bigger feet than any woman in Europe and shoes do not exist in my size. I wear a size 10 in the U.S. which is big, I know, but it’s not That big. I don’t have to go to a special store to buy shoes in the U.S. or anything. But, here I am apparently a big ol’ outlier so stores do not carry anything above a 9 and 1/2. So, as fabulous as the shoes are here in Brussels, they are not filling my closet. It is depressing and I may need retail therapy.
3. Postal workers in Brussels do not wear uniforms (except coats when it’s cold) and they use public transportation to deliver the mail. I told you this list would be random.
4. Taxi drivers here drive Unbelievably fast. When we came home from the airport the last time (with our friend Kathy) our taxi driver was going over 160 kilometers/hour. That’s over 100 mph. Through a busy city. We’re pretty sure Kathy won’t be coming back via taxi anytime soon.
5. The restroom or bathroom is called the le toilette. I still have trouble asking where the toilet is (it seems gauche in English, but is the right word en français). But, if you ask where the bathroom is people want to know why you want to bathe in their restaurant. Most of les toilettes (except the ones in most bars and restaurants) have an attendant who keeps everything clean so you have to pay to use them (usually around 30 cents). The person who sits outside les toilettes all day and cleans them is called ‘Madame Pipi’. Seriously.
7 Comments, Comment or Ping
French speakers seem pretty similiar to the “Ugly American” stereotype. “Don’t nobody speak Am’rcan ’round here?”
February 16th, 2009
I like your blog …very interesting. I lived in Belgium for 2 years and will be visting in March with the plan of returning end of the year …not that I dont like Belgium but when i think of the language barrier, it heats me hard….funny thing is i dont want to become a housewife but the more i think about it,i suspect i might become unintentional housewife too….Well atlest you are taking some french classes.During the 2 yrs i worked at an international org and had a french teacher coming twice a week for those interested to learn french. Its 1 year since i left and my french is almost gone….You made me laugh when you spoke of the postal workers thats so true….what about the crazy drivers!? ooh my i dont think i can ever be comfortable to drive in Brussels pretty different from other Belgian cities though….and the problem with getting shoes thats like my sisy,she lives in Belgium too and most ly forced to buy shoes online…I used to laugh at her so much ,she had this pair of boots she loved so much almost like how a little boy would hang on his Superman suit ….and i started picking on her even joke that i will hide the boots where she wont find them. Anyway, its nice to be able to share experiences and i look forward to be visiting your blog more.
Bon journee
Irene
February 16th, 2009
Hi – You have a nice blog! I saw a link on xpats.com and read this and just had to remark.
1. The French Flemish divide is extremely frustrating and sad. But, you pick up on a key point. — Brussels is a French speaking city with a lot of expats sitting in the sea of Flanders. A lot of Flemish you hear on the street are people just coming in for work. It’s silly to speak Flemish here.
I went to Leuven for part of my studies, and its not true anymore that the Flemish speak French very well. Their second language now is definitely English. And, having schools separated by the language communities detracts native French speaking or Flemish speakers from teaching in the other community’s schools. I think that its insane that even in Brussels, there are few bilingual schools (there are a few programs, but it should be on a grand scale.
Also, I don’t think that people appreciate the fact that the French speakers in Belgium are just as or even more multilingual than the Flemish. Many Walloon speak at least two languages — the frustrating thing for the Flemish is that the second language isn’t Dutch. My friends, many of whom are from Liege and Namur, all speak French, English, and Flemish. Some also speak Italian and Spanish – you can’t compare them to ugly Americans. If you go to Liege, they may not speak English (which may be frustrating), but they also speak Italian, Arabic, Spanish…
2. Shoe size. I am a US size 10.5/11 and I feel your pain. Unfortunately, I have no advice where to go for big shoes either. I usually wait for trips to the US or go to London’s Baker Street. I think it took three shop ladies who looked at me incredulously when I said that I was looking for size 42 to give up!
3. Postal workers. Indeed random.
4. Taxis. They do drive fast don’t they and sometimes I fear for my life.
5. Madame Pipi. The worst part of paying is when the toilet is not clean!
February 16th, 2009
irene–i’m glad i’m not the only one who is terrified of driving in brussels, but since we don’t have a car and i can’t drive standard i don’t think i’ll have to get over that fear.
gerry–thanks for your helpful additional information on the french v. flemish situation. i know i only have a pedestrian grasp of the situation and really appreciate learning more about it. and i’m glad i’m not the only bigfoot in belgium!
February 16th, 2009
I think there may be others in Belgium facing the same problem when it comes to big size shoes….hopeful someone will see a business opportunity in near future.
February 18th, 2009
In Australia it’s called the “toilet” too. It does sound gauche to me, but I suppose gauche isn’t a word in Australian either. You can get away with “bathroom”, but you’ll certainly get flack for “restroom”. I’ve taken to the quaint Britishism, “the loo”. Sounds so much better than “toilet”
February 19th, 2009
I’ve just read your blog for the first time, and oh how it resonates with me!
I’m not yet fully resident in Brussels, having commuted between the UK and Belgium for 2 years, but will be a permanent fixture in less than 2 months….Gulp!
Questions that I ask frequently are:-
1. Why do I have to pay “Madame Pipi” even when I’m eating ( and paying! ) in a restaurant – and why am I restricted to two sheets of toilet paper??
2. Does Belgium actually insist on its drivers having passed a test? After using the car to house hunt, I now understand why my car insurance is going to increase by over 500% on the UK price! I think I’ll be doing a lot of walking…..
3. Is it just the UK that has a preoccupation with bathrooms and toilets in houses? A five bedroom house with one bathroom – is it me?
4. And finally – something very nice – when I have asked casually ( whilst holding my breath! ) whether landlords will allow dogs in their newly renovated, very white, very dog hair free houses they have all said yes – and asked what breed and how many! Try asking that in the Uk and see what answer you get!
So, wish me luck on my impending move – I may, as yet, become an unintentional housewife as no job is on the horizon yet….I think I prefer unintentional gym bunny tho!
March 11th, 2009
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